The barn doors have arisen. More correctly they were wrestled. These babies are heavy. T2P painted the blue color where the hanging straps are attached to the doors to simplify his real painting. T2P is always thinking.
The install was 99% planning. As I have mused before, the barn door industry, while much more vibrant than I would have expected, is a cottage industry. There is a lot of "left to the reader to determine" in the instructions. Basically you get a bar, some hangers, and some straps with wheels in them to attach to the doors. And their good wishes.
So we planned. A lot. And cross-checked. A lot. And confirmed. A lot. This is a one and done install. Not technically complicated, but it has to be dead-on. The first time.
- How high does the bar that the rollers roll on go. We have a 1x6 header so we can vary within that. We want the door to cover the opening and look good open or closed. We need some clearance at the bottom to install the guides, but not too much. We need clearance between the roller wheel that rolls along the bar and door so we can get the doors on and off. But not too much or it might be too easy for it to jump off.
- CtC mocked up a template. Tweaking ensued. Problem solved.
- Where do the hangers that attach the bar to the wall go. There are 4 of them for each side of the opening. Plus one more if we see a use for it. Collaboration ensued.
- There is a joint in the bar where the bar for the left door connects to the bar for the right door. It is a fine joint, but we figured a hanger as close to the joint as possible on either side was a good structural idea.
- Then we decided the doors will be open most of the time. Let's put a hanger behind the outboard strap so at least half of each door will be bearing directly on a hanger most of the time.
- Then we split the difference for the remaining hangers.
- Not sure what we were supposed to do with the plus one more hanger. We put it back in the box.
Went up with minor hitches. Look incredible. We have a bit of an alignment issue with the doors to the master. No gap at the top, but about a 1/4 inch or so, probably less, at the bottom. Issue is, there are no adjustments. This is one and done.
Of course the instructions make no mention of alignment. "It is left to the reader to determine". We'll work today, but there seems to be enough play between the diameter of the bolts that attach the strap to the door and the diameter of the holes in the strap that we can fine tune the fit.
Black carriage bolts came with the kit. We decided last week to install regular silver bolts to echo (sound like an architect don't I) the joist hangers on the front porch and pergola. Like the look. Don't like the carriage bolts. Look a little lost from the inside when the doors are closed. We'll replace with hex bolts and a flat washer today. Should look a bit more barny.
One thing I thought about way way way too late. We've known since the beginning the left door going into the master bedroom was going to be tight. Real tight. What I now realize is there is nothing in the rules that says these barn doors need to be the same size on the left and the right. No rule at all. What we SHOULD have done is order like a 30 inch door for the left and a 34 inch door for the right. INSTEAD of the two 32 inch doors we did order... Oh well.
Meanwhile back at the counter tops. Calls were placed. More calls were placed. The calls were not getting returned. I was heading down the option where I fire IKEA, get a refund, and start over with a local supplier.
I tried to speak to a living person at the IKEA Customer Assistance line. THE ONLY NUMBER YOU CAN FIND ANYWHERE. You know where this is going. The IKEA Customer Assistance line is crap. Best I can tell, there are no humans associated with it at all. If you punch 97 buttons, in exactly the right sequence, it will tell you what your local store is and what hours it is open. Knew that already
There is an animated on-line "chick" with a nice calming smile and pretty red hair that keeps wanting to help you. Her name is Anna. Ask Anna any question and she will point you to products you can buy on-line. This is in the help area of the site.
About ready to take to I-10 and go find a live person. Up close and personal so to speak. When, I get a call back from the counter top schlocks. It's the lady who had at least heard the words customer and service in the same sentence. Seems she has taken an interest in my plight.
Good news. You have cleared the audit. We are now determining how long it will be before the product can be ordered and received. Well, you can imagine where this is going. I mention I am trying to find a human at IKEA. She has a name and phone number and extension. Will wonders never cease!
I call said person. He works from 13.00 to 13.10 on days where the moon is full. I jest. But he has real good hours. I leave a message.
This all took place around 07.30. Along about 14.00 I get a call from the counter top schlock lady, who is actually proving to be helpful. Everybody pulled together and we can do your install on Friday, 21st-Nov. So that is good news, except that is 4 weeks after this saga began. CtC tells me a week to 10 days is usually way more time than you need. At least we have a date.
About 5 minutes later. I get a call from the IKEA guy. I'm guessing they're in cahoots. He says no. In any event, they are embarrassed this has taken way way too long. Well, no shit (I thought but did not say). There is a $150 up charge that I don't quite understand, but it seems the radius where the banjo part of the bathroom counter tops is quite expensive. How we did not know that when we ordered the banjo tops in the first place escapes me, but whatever.
Since IKEA is embarrassed they are eating the $150. Which is very nice.
I recount the gory details of the lost order, gangster looking template guys, the "who told you that" customer service. I think I could have gotten more than the $150. I just want the damn counter tops to fit...
Meanwhile, T2P just paints and paints and paints. As you look at the pictures you will notice more and more white moldings. Looks great.
The network guys returned. I should say different network guys returned. Seems every single one of the terminations in the garage, where the "data center" is, were terminated to the B standard (see yesterdays muse) while the other ends scattered throughout the Quail Manor were terminated (correctly) to the A standard. They reterminated all the garage ends. Took awhile.
And, I came up with a solution to the WiFi attenuation issue. On the south wall (the one towards DnT's) are Demarcation Points (demarcs) for the Cable and Phone companies. The phone company demarc is comprised of two network cables. I had him terminate one for data. I'll tuck a cheap WiFi router up under the Quail Manor eve. It will stay dry, be outside the wire cage surrounding the Quail Manor and broadcast un-attenuated WiFi to the Quail Manor Grounds, and to DnTs.
Here are pictures.
Note there is one of my most favorite new tool. CtC has this glorious compact battery powered impact driver. It acts like a drill with a screwdriver bit until the going gets tough. Then it goes to impacting and no screw or nut has a chance against it. I used to to drive all the screws holding down the pergola steel. It's an amazing tool. I borrow CtC's all the time. Well, he got tired of that, and knew I coveted his tool. So he bought me one and gifted it too me. Makes me very happy and means CtC does not have to go looking for his. Like all nice things it was not cheap so I am indebted. Only trouble is since I got it, I've had nothing to impact drive...