It was a good day for CtC. He was politic'n for a Gold Star. I told him I'd award a Platinum Star but you can't politic for stars. Hence, a "Saves the Day".
So, what did he do:
- He made the toilet problem in the guest bath go away. Used an offset flange that Bob the Plumber said would not work. The offset flange shifts the toilet away from the wall 3/4 of an inch or so to provide the necessary clearance for the back of the toilet. Sure looks to me like it's working. I'll let them hash out the merits of the solution to see who's actually right. But we have all the specified toilets.
- He routed all the barn doors and fabricated the guides. The design is a collaboration, but the execution is all CtC. And it was a somewhat stressful execution.I did go buy the cutting board... The way this works is:
- We are mounting a piece of angle iron that the bottom of the door runs along to prevent it from swinging in or out. We were going to mount it to the floor, but decided to have some flanges attached so we can actually mount it to the floor board so as to not risk damaging the floor.
- We'd looked on-line and thought the commercially available guides that were similar in design were too short. If the door got bumped we'd have a blow-out. So we extended the guides to 2 feet.
- Truth be known, the only time you can bump the doors to cause a blow-out is when they are closed. Our design leaves about a two inch, maybe three, engagement between the angle iron and door when the door is closed. Still two or three times what the commercial stuff provided.
- We refined the design to install some plastic guides inside the bottom of each door for the angle iron to ride against. No door damage, smooth operation. I researched the plastic and determined guides and plastic chopping boards are basically the same thing. The chopping board may be a food grade plastic, but otherwise same.
- CtC figured out the thickness was exactly one third of the thickness of the door and that his table saw blade was exactly the thickness of the angle iron flange.
- Design issue was to sort just how deep to make the groves for the angel iron to run. Lots of engineering and we came up with a depth that was functional and aesthetically appealing.
- Then, how to attach the guides. Clear silicon to the rescue.
- Here are some pictures. Note, the routing blow-out on the end grain will be addressed through the magic of T2P and putty and caulk. The first shot is how things will look closed. Then there is one where the angle is pulled out a bit so you can see it. The last shot is of the angle removed and placed kind of how it will be under the door, but shown beside the door for clarity.
- The angles will be painted black to match the rest of the hardware.
- And the glass shower doors were installed, pictures of those later. We discovered the robe hook that had been installed inside the shower to hold a wash cloth interfered with the door hardware. I had already wished it had been installed on the other side of the shower so you did not see it as you entered the room. Anyway, now we had a tile with two holes in it.
- No amount of caulk was going to fix that.
- CtC has a solution. Go get another tile. Call Sal the Tile Guy, henceforth Sal the Tile Wizard, to replace the tile.
- As I was conducting this muse, Sal and company arrive and replaced the tile. I defy anyone to sort which tile it was. Excellent job.
- He allowed the parody electrician into the Quail Manor. He did it without asking me. He solved the problem, all the while blaming CtC for the problem in the first place. JCSLE is a real ass. Anyway, the problem is gone.
So CtC had a good day.
More on the shower doors and how physics is a bitch. For aesthetic reasons we went extra tall. Look great. Problem with extra tall, extra heavy. Good hardware all that, just a whole lota glass to move, particularly in the shower. We'll get a workout. Also a dilemma with handles.
- The handle that is easy to pull is the bar that looks like a grab bar that has to be on the outside. Otherwise the handle will bump into the other door. And they have to bypass.
- To prevent water getting between the doors, the outside door needs to be the door the furthest from the shower head so the spray hits the inside door first and slides along onto the outside door. If not, the spray could get between the doors.
- So, the handle on the inside door is inside the shower. There is a little detente you can stick your finger to open the inside door from the outside. Which is what you would want to do to turn the water on. Not good getting wet when turning on the shower.
- Anyway, have to sick your finger in the detente to open the door to turn-on the water. Does not make me happy, but I must submit to physical laws...
And T2P painted. I think we have the door into the garage to paint white. Then we start painting barn doors.
Here are pictures. Forgot to mention I mocked up the Quail Manor entertainment system. With pieces of cardboard. You will notice representations of monitors in the various rooms. There was a plant blooming on the way up for DnTs so I took it's picture.